A Soft Classic means you are basically balance (features,
body shape, etc.) but you have this very soft feminine look that should be
addressed in your makeup and clothing. The book I have was written in 1987, the
author, David Kibbe, would update it. However, many of the basic principles
today are still viable. Kibbe runs his own business in N.Y. and runs beauty
workshops in groups. He also commands a very hefty price for a day with him on
a one to one basis. He is also overly flowering in his writings and speech -
but that is just is way. He really gets into it.
Anyway, for better or worse, here it goes:
SHAPE: Soft, curved shapes with rounded edges. Smooth,
symmetrical shapes that flow gently. Circles, ovals, subdued swirls.
LINE AND SILHOUETTE: Smooth, soft, symmetrical silhouettes with slight shaping.
Gently flowing lines that flare or swirl. Clean lines that are unbroken.
Smooth, horizontal, or diagonal draping.
AVOID: Hard-edged geometric silhouettes. Overly ornate or
intricate lines. Wide, unconstructed silhouettes. Sharp, severely straight
lines. Straight lines without flow or shaping. Overly crisp and fitted
silhouettes with staccato lines.
FABRIC: Fabrics should be those of light to moderate weight that
will drape softly and flow easily without being clingy. Finish should be slight
matte or slight sheen, with a soft or plush surface (silks, cashmere, challis,
crepe, suede, velvet, handkerchief linen, raw silk, shantung, etc.). Textures
should be very light and soft. Fabrics that have a high-quality, imported look
are excellent. Knits and wovens should be supple, light and drapable without
being clingy.
AVOID: Heavy, stiff fabrics. Rough, thick textures. Bulky
knits. Overly sheer fabrics. Extremely shiny fabrics (except for evening).
Extremely dull-finished fabrics.
DETAIL: Detail should be smooth and symmetrical, composed of
rounded shapes with slightly intricate edges. Detail provides that extra touch
of Yin (femininity), so it is meant to further soften and feminize your look.
It is used as an afterthought, and should only suggest a Romantic streak. Be
careful not to overdo it!
Slight definition through the shoulders: small, crisp
pads; shoulder tucks; gathers; beading; slightly ornate trim; etc.
Clean, soft necklines. Draped necklines, soft cowls, jewel
or scooped necks, subdued intricacy (gathers, shirring, soft pleats or folds,
etc.).
Tapered sleeves and a defined waist. Subdued trim is
possible (beautiful and unusual buttons, or small gathers).
AVOID: Sharply tailored detail. Wide, unconstructed
detail. Overly ornate or fussy detail Animated, "perky" detail
Minimal "no detail" looks.
SEPARATES: Use carefully and sparingly. Separates are effective only
if they are part of a well-matched, "ensemble approach" to your
head-to-toe appearance. Keep the colors, textures, and fabrics elegantly
blended and avoid a staccato look.
Jackets: Jackets should be softly tailored with curvy
shaping (subdued, not fussy). They can have slight shoulder definition with
crisp pads, and are best with such added detail as shoulder tucks or gathers
and tapered sleeves. Again, such detail should be subdued and understated, not
fussy or overdone.
AVOID: Overly tailored, sharp-edged, stiff jackets. Wide,
boxy jackets that are unconstructed. Extremely cropped jackets that are crisp
and "perky." Overly fussy or flouncy jackets with excess trim.
Skirts: Skirts should be soft, smooth, and gently flowing.
A straight skirt should be lightweight and slightly tapered at the hemline to
avoid stiffness. Flared skirts are best, with an uneven hemline that softly
flows. Waist detail should be soft and subdued with slight gathers or soft
pleats that are stitched down through the hip. Bias-cut pieces that are added
to the bottom of the skirt are also possible. Hemlines on a straight skirt
should be short-never longer than one inch below the knee. Uneven hemlines will
always be longer, gracefully grazing the mid-calf area. Slits should be small and
elegant, suggested rather than overstated.
AVOID: Long, straight skirts. Sharply tailored skirts.
Wide, unconstructed styles. Voluminous circles. Extra flouncy skirts-except for
smoothly flared styles. Extremely tight or clingy skirts. excess detail that is
overdone (draping, shirring, full gathers, ultra-deep folds, etc.
Pants: Pants should be of a softly tailored styles in
lightweight fabric. Soft pleats, slight gathers and a slightly tapered leg are
nice details. Hemline should be just below the top of the ankle so as to show a
touch of foot or shoe. (For extra feminine touch.)
Blouses: Blouses should be soft and elegant with soft
edges or a suggestion of intricate detail. Soft bows, slight lacy edges,
jabots, and draped necklines are excellent. Subdued trim-applique, shirring,
gathers, beading, etc.-is also good as long as it's not overdone. Fabric should
be lightweight-with the slight sheen of silk best. Very soft and sheer linens,
batiste, voile, etc., are also elegant.
AVOID: Sharply tailored styles. Wide, unconstructed
styles. Animated, "perky" styles.
Sweaters: Sweaters should be soft and smooth. Lightweight
knits are best, particularly when the finish is luxuriously soft to the touch.
Cashmere, boucle, angora and silky weaves are all excellent. Lengths should be
short to moderate. Subdued, intricate detail (applique, beading, shirring) is
good.
AVOID: Over sized, bulky sweaters. Rough or thick knits.
Skinny-ribbed knits. "Perky" patterns.
COLOR: Your use of color should be soft and luscious within your
complimentary palette. Pastels and moderately bright tones are best while light
neutrals are quite elegant in luxurious fabrics. Color combinations should be
softly monochromatic, with intensities blending together rather than sharply contrasting.
NOTE: This does not mean "all one color," but
rather that tones should softly harmonize. Light/bright color combinations are
especially effective on you. Dark colors will need softening and brightening;
either use them in accents or add a touch of soft texture or sheen to the
fabric to dampen their starkness.
AVOID: Multicolored splashes. Head-to-toe dark color
schemes. Sharply contrasting color schemes.
PRINTS: Prints should be soft, flowing, and watercolor.
Abstract rounded shapes that swirl into each other are excellent.
AVOID: Sharp geometric shapes. Small symmetrical prints.
Animated, "cute" prints.
Christine Scaman's Four Word Shopping Mantra for Soft Classic:
UNBROKEN. CURVED. SYMMETRIC. SOFTENED.
Style is repetition. - Nina Garcia
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